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The Kitchen Gardener

by Brigitte Dimock

Leeks - The Gourmet's Onion

Leeks have been cultivated since at least 3000 BC. They are native to the area stretching from Israel to India. Along with onions and asparagus, they are part of the Liliaceae family (Lily). A leek resembles an oversize scallion but its taste is milder and the leaves are flat rather than tubular.

Leek Picture Phoenician traders introduced the leek to Wales. Legend has it that in 640 AD, the Briton King Cadwallader was sorely pressed by invading Saxons. To distinguish themselves from the enemy, the Welsh wore leeks in their hats and won a great victory over their enemies. Since that time, the Welsh have eaten leeks and even made it their national emblem.

In France, leeks have been described as the "asparagus of the poor." Louis Diat, one of France's great chefs, created an internationally famous soup based on the "poor people" soup. Vichyssoise was actually created by Chef Diat in New York City's Ritz Carlton Hotel. It was based on a hot soup made by his mother. When the soup seemed too hot to eat in the summer, he was inspired to make a cold leek soup called Crème Vichyssoise.

A report in the Journal of the National Cancer Institute suggests allium (onion, leek, garlic) vegetables may help protect against stomach cancer. Leeks supply some fibre which may help prevent colon cancer. They may also have a cholesterol-lowering effect. Half a cup of chopped boiled leeks has only 16 calories. The main nutrients are iron and folate.

Leek Picture In the garden, leeks are easy to grow and I have never known a leek to be attacked by any pest or disease. They are not fussy and will grow in almost any kind of soil but for really fine leeks, dig in plenty of manure and compost. They prefer a moist, well drained soil and temperate climate conditions but will grow anywhere except in a tropical climate.

As leeks have a fairly long growing season, plant them as early as you can. Transplants are available in local nurseries but can sometimes be hard to find. Dig a six inch trench in the garden. Then use a dibber to make a hole and drop a transplant and a little water in each hole. Plant them about six inches apart in rows 18 inches apart. As the plants start to grow, fill in the soil. After the trench is completely filled in, add a thick layer of mulch - grass clippings work well. This will ensure that you have a longer white part and also helps keep the leeks clean.

To keep your leeks, you can simply dig them up before the ground freezes, wash them carefully to get the grit out from between the layers, and freeze them in plastic bags. They do not need to be blanched. If you have a cold room, they can also be heeled into earth.

In the kitchen, leeks are very versatile. They can be eaten cold with a vinaigrette. Probably the best known use is in leek and potato soup. However, they can be used in many dishes although you may have to a bit of research to find different recipes. A search on the Internet yielded many recipes. We found the following recipe to be very tasty.

Fettuccine with Chicken, Leeks and Tomatoes

Add a salad and some crusty bread. Serves 4.

4 each boneless chicken breasts
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
3 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 28 oz can tomatoes, chopped (I used frozen tomatoes from my garden)
1/4 cup red wine
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon oregano
1/4 teaspoon thyme
1/4 teaspoon basil
2 teaspoons fresh parsley, chopped
1/4 cup whipping cream
1 small can tomato paste
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 pound fettuccine, freshly cooked
salt and pepper to taste
Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium high heat. Season chicken with pepper. Add to skillet and saute until cooked through. Cool and thinly slice chicken crosswise.

Melt butter in same skillet over medium low heat. Add leeks and garlic and saute until leeks are very tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, sugar, oregano, thyme, basil and wine and simmer for approximately 20 minutes. Add chicken, tomato paste, cream and ½ cup of the Parmesan cheese and simmer a few minutes until sauce thickens. Adjust seasoning and add parsley.

Serve chicken mixture atop the freshly cooked fettuccine and sprinkle with additional Parmesan cheese.

Read previous Kitchen Gardeners.

Feb 2002 Squash